The Best Looks From New York Fashion Week: Men’s
New York Fashion Week: Men’s, just successfully completed its sophomore season with four days of Fall 2016 designer runways and presentations. Not failing to impress, present and accounted for were collections from the iconic American fashion houses like Michael Kors and Tommy Hilfiger.
But it was some of the slightly more underground and new kids on the block that caught our eye as additional standout looks from the shows. David Hart, Jeffrey Rüdes, Greg Lauren, and Uri Minkoff all made waves with their staging and their sartorial sensibilities while Joseph Abboud created quite the comeback and Todd Snyder capped off the onslaught of New York men’s shows in the best possible fashion.
Yes, he may be the nephew of that Ralph Lauren, but Greg Lauren has earned every one of his designer stripes. His brand of Americana is decidedly less clean-cut — and it is all the more brilliant for it. Luxuriously shredded, ripped, and torn clothing is his M.O., and that avant-garde aesthetic didn’t change for fall. Yet Lauren took it a step further with a presentation that was nothing short of a cinematic revelation. Character vignettes — including a full-scale boxing ring — set a memorable tone and further made his dirty, dynamic looks something to write about. We love the multi-layered ensembles with tons of neo-Goth and distressed edge that restored our faith in the validity of the hoodie.
Inspired by the moodiness of the Jazz Era and singing greats including Miles Davis, designer David Hart sent out a beautiful melody of fitted windowpane trousers and vintage-style polos under blazers — all hearkening back to the vibrant heyday of the ’20s with a decidedly modern twist.
The New York Fashion Week: Men’s debut of the Jeffrey Rüdes luxury menswear line ranked highly among the Fall 2016 lineup. Rüdes is co-founder of the renowned J Brand denim line but with his new eponymous collection, he’s branched into sophisticated sportswear and tailoring, all of which featured an enticingly retro, jet-set mood. The throwback vibes were strong in a tobacco-hued suede trench coat with contemporary ribbed wrists showcasing the best of old and new school. The bright punch of a boxy, yellow velvet blazer styled with patent brogues sans socks, shined pretty brightly, too.
The Todd Snyder collection had the express honor of closing out New York Fashion Week: Men’s — and it did so on a high note. Not keen to disappoint, the design house stayed true to its aesthetic that fuses woodsy, sports-y outdoorsman with distinguished gentleman in a sartorial scenario that really is the best of both worlds. Tweed took on a high-tech spin with waterproof bonding and flannel was coated in Teflon for a parka that you may never want to take off. Same goes for the suede boots with performance soles. But the blue and gray velvet tuxedos that were styled with turtlenecks instead of bowties along with sneakers might have been the glossiest moment of the show. Outdoor-indoor, rugged and refined, the Todd Snyder look is clearly a study in contrasts.
Veteran menswear designer Joseph Abboud made a triumphant return to the catwalk with “American Savile Row”-inspired tailoring in everything from tweed three-piece suits to distressed wools, nubby knits, and washed velvet sport coats, all infused with military and vintage detailing and fit-and-flare silhouettes not to mention patriotic riffs on the American flag. The collection also made the case for why you should be wearing fingerless gloves and dapper hats on the daily. The designer called it all “rugged dandyism;” we simply call it must-wear. It has been 15 years since Abboud’s last runway showing and he came back with a stylish vengeance.
For the past four years, Uri Minkoff has been giving guys full permission to accessorize handsomely with his label that includes all measures of bags, backpacks, and murses. Now, he’s added ready-to-wear to the mix with a collection designed for the modern-day influencer. It’s accessibly priced with the coolness of a Scandinavian fit and the precision of Japanese detailing. Tapered trousers with electric blue tuxedo stripes and latex ankle cuffs, all paired with platform slippers, made a statement, but you’ll probably feel more inclined to don the outerwear looks which included a fur-lined parka and a zip-up moto jacket that were a bit more versatile.